30.12.07

The Vibrant Colors of Life Going On

Next to me on the couch among my “regular-sized” presents sat The One. This was an enormous box, which I knew intuitively held a Huge gift. It beckoned. It begged to be opened. We had waited through the last agonizing hour of Kill Bill on the Spike channel, interrupted every five minutes with six minutes of commercials, to start opening gifts. Even though this was the eve of my 30th year – which I’ve always heard people say was something traumatic, and to be dreaded – I felt more like a kid than I have since before I thought about my age at all. I savored the excitement and mystery. Though in spite of my amazement at Keely’s generosity, I was pretty sure I knew what it was. The minute I saw that thing, so big it had had to be wrapped in two different kinds of paper because the first roll had run out mid-wrap, I knew this present was going to be over the top. Keely instructed me to wait on last minute while she grabbed the camera. She wanted to document my expression the moment the surprise revealed itself from underneath this grand anticipation. I, too, was cherishing this event like it was a delectable dessert, complete with a cherry on top to save for last.



With the first tear in the wrapping’s seam, I saw the two promised words in bold black font: ROCK BAND. And the imaginary choir sang Hallelujah like they do in movies when something magical or revelatory happens. Virtual guitar riffs and techno drum beats in my imagination made me want to dance. Multi-colored rhythm squares burst to the beat of my happy birthday song.


I was immediately blasted backwards in time to my 13th birthday, when I had gotten “The Jaminator” from my parents. This was an electronic guitar that looked a whole lot like the one from Rock Band, though a much more primitive form of it. For its time, it was hot and edgy. Well, sort of edgy. But anyway, I actually don’t even compare these two gifts because they are both electronic game-guitars. The similarity to which I refer is not in the gifts themselves, but in the experience of receiving them. In my memory, my thirteenth birthday was like all my others: Special. They were special because my family made them special. Because we had our rituals, we did my favorite things, and we were all together. We ate at the restaurant of my choice, which was always of the Mexican variety. We’d go pick up Nana, usually in the snow or on icy roads. We’d go out to dinner, and then we’d drive around the rich neighborhoods and look at the elaborate Christmas light displays. That particular birthday, I had strayed from my Mexican routine. I ate a mound of salad covered in Thousand Island dressing and extra croutons. I remember that, because that’s what I expelled after having to run – mid-meal – into the girls’ bathroom at Souper Salad. I had a flu bug or something, but refused to skip the drive to look at people’s huge, sparkling holiday homes after dinner. So I curled up in the “way-back” of Dad’s silver, hatchback corolla, and watched the twinkling lights from out the rear window, as my eyes swiped the sky with the revolution of the wheels.

As I stood there in Chris and Keely’s living room, turning 30 among a growing group of 19 and 20 year-olds who had come to share in my friend Marlena’s and my joint birthday celebration, I felt young in a way that almost exceeded actual childhood. This was because with this day, came the affirmation that age truly is a state of mind. And that within our spirits, youth is pure and eternal. We never have to grow up if we don’t want to. Ironically, this is one of the most spiritually mature lessons we can learn.

Chris and I ripped open the box and hurriedly took every individual part out of its packaging. The guitar said Fender Stratacaster on it. Its features were subtler – somehow more “grown-up” - than its predecessor from Guitar Hero. This was the brand new, highly anticipated game for Play Station 3: Rock Band, winner of several Video Game Awards including “Best Soundtrack” and “Most addictive game”. The box was loaded with parts, each one more exciting than the last! We unearthed a microphone, a neck strap for the guitar, a full drum set complete with kick pedal, and the coolest drumsticks ever, that have the Rock Band logo on them! We could hardly contain our excitement and wanted to play right then, but people were streaming in the door now, so we decided it would be best if we put it all back in the box and come back to it later.

The house filled with people, as yet unfamiliar to me, who all turned out to be really nice, cool, and fun to talk to. Marlena and I blew out the twenty-two candles on our joint cake, which represented Marlena’s tender years. But even though thirty candles wouldn’t fit on our small carrot cake, (my favorite), I was thrilled to be reaching this pinnacle age. A milestone. We both made wishes, and blew ridiculously on trick candles that went out but came back alive, as with the aid of some black magic, just seconds after.

The whole, black-lit garage was full of people…playing. This is what Chris and Keely’s house is all about: Play and Fun. Some played pool, some played foosball. The bumper pool and ping-pong tables were active. Darts flew toward the bulls-eye. The fish tank glimmered like a miniature ocean under a spinning disco ball, and music spun from the I-pod speakers. I kicked some unsuspecting young men’s butts at ping-pong, and they in turn flattered me like clumsy boys competing for my attention.


Marlena and I each wore beautiful leis made of tuberose and Plumeria. We had also each had a candy necklace attached to our smaller gifts from Keely, which we now wore around our festively decorated necks. I began talking to a girl named Gina about how the little candies on those necklaces are kind of gross, to which she suggested I try and get rid of them. I asked her to eat one, which she did. This gave me an idea. I decided I would work through the entire party circuit and attempt to empty my elastic string of rocky little sugar beads. I began walking to each person and every group of people, explaining that it was my birthday wish for each and every party-goer to eat one piece of candy from the necklace, and then tell me why they chose the color they did. It was a fun idea that quick became an obsession. Or at the least, a commitment I decided I wasn’t willing to leave unfulfilled. I thought it would be a cool experiment in human individuality. And it would be a fun way to get to know people. AND I could get rid of my yucky candy!

I put the question out there to the partiers, and when asked to bite off one candy circle, the vast majority obliged and humored my wish. After getting through everyone playing and watching ping pong in the driveway, the girls playing bumper pool, the two guys in the garage playing pool, the other two guys watching the pool game, and half the people in the living room, I decided I should be writing people’s answers down! I would never remember them all otherwise, though some were so cool I will probably never forget them.

So I went to rummage around and get something to write on, when I got sidetracked. I mentioned – okay, bragged - to whoever would hear me that I had gotten Rock Band for my birthday, and expressed that I was dying to play! You know how it is, when you get the most awesome present in the world for your birthday or Christmas, and you want to play so badly you can hardly finish opening everything else! A bunch of other people shared my enthusiasm, and it seemed like we could’ve gotten a band together the size of E-Street. I asked Chris if he would try and hook up the game, jumping up and down and squealing at the mention of actually playing it for the firs time. But he suggested that Marlena wasn’t too keen on the party turning into a video game extravaganza. No worry; I understood. I was supposed to be working on my sociology project anyway! And I knew that whenever we did finally play, it would be well worth the wait.

I thought about ditching the candy project, but then with a second wind, went gung ho to the point of trying to hire an assistant to dictate while I wrote down people’s answers. I ended up going it alone, but with a strong resolve to finish what I had started. I found a pen in my bag, and the red envelope that held my birthday card from Star and Keely, and went back to square one. I combed over the garage and driveway again, asking everyone to tell me their color, repeat their answer, and make sure I had their name spelled correctly. I recorded everyone’s answers, intrigued at the patterns that emerged between them, and the differences that made each answer unique.

Gina had chosen blue because her parents had “chosen blue for her”. She was one third of triplet sisters, one of whose “chosen colors” was red, and the other besides her, pink. Apparently her parents used to paint her toenails blue when she was a very little girl. Kelana was the first of three guys to tell me they chose green, because it was the color of my eyes. I was among very smooth, and very sweet, operators. Another guy said yellow because it was the color of my hair. Well, close enough I suppose. The first to choose green chose it because both he likes trees, and he’s ‘horny’. Apparently green is the color of horniness. Was I the only one who wasn’t aware of this?

The various reasons I heard for people choosing white were the following: White reminded Kapena of Hawaii’s snow-capped mountains, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. Ben said he chose white because it is the color of Heaven. When asked if he’d been, he said “No, but I know I have a place waiting there for me when I go.” While a couple of dudes scoffed at his seriousness, I appreciated his answer tremendously. White was a third guy’s favorite color of “panties”. Keep in mind these were mostly twenty year old guys whose brains I was picking.

Some people had two or three answers, and some changed their answer half way through my conversations with them. Janelle chose green because it stood out, it was the prettiest, and it was her favorite color. Both Liana and Chris chose yellow simply because it was their favorite color. Chris said that yellow is a neutral, calming color. And I learned that, interestingly, in his perception color correlates with sound.

James picked a color I can’t remember now, and for some reason failed to write down, because “God told him to”. Adam chose blue because it is the color of the ocean. I could certainly have used that answer as my own. John chose red because it looked the most like a potential color of actual fruit. He said the rest were neon and pastel, but the red at least resembled something that could be fruity by nature. Meanwhile, James chose red, metaphorically relating it to the “umbilical cord”. I liked his philosophical, and somewhat science-fiction-esque, answer. Shane chose his color based on the fact that it just happened to be “the first one in his mouth". When I asked Marlena to eat one of my candies, she said, “Only if you eat one of mine”.

Cheriess took a blue one. She was hoping blue would be the color of her soon-to-be-born baby’s eyes. She didn’t know yet if the baby was a boy or girl. They want to be surprised, she told me. I felt such happiness for this woman I had never met until now. One of the most interesting answers I got was that Elise chose orange, because it was “The 7th candy to the left of the knot”. My self-imposed rules of the assignment dictated that everyone was asked the question, offered a candy, and given the chance to answer. However, if anyone chose to decline, which some did, that was perfectly okay too.

I didn’t have time to stop to eat others’ candies; or have discussions about the history of their love for blues or greens. I simply had to get each answer quickly and move on to the next person. I had told Chris at approximately 10:00pm that I was feeling ready to head back to Mark and Kelly’s down the street, where I was house and pet sitting. He had said, “No way can you leave your own party so early”. And then I had started playing ping-pong again and had forgotten about leaving. But by 11:30, I decided I would party until the clock struck midnight, and then make my exit within the first minute of my thirtieth year. All night long, it kept crossing my mind that my mom was thirty when she had me. I felt her with me so strongly on this night. Every time I looked in a mirror, or someone gave me a compliment about how great I look for “my age”, I saw and felt mom’s spirit in the core of me. In my mind, it was no mere coincidence that my gift was a musical one, which mom would have loved to see us play and enjoy! In the same vein, it is a game for which my nephew Aidan and I share a great fondness. My mom’s presence is written all over these connections.

I was still playing ping-pong, when I realized it was 11:46pm. I had put my pen and envelope down some time earlier, figuring I already had quite a list of answers written down, and that it wouldn’t be the end of the world if I didn’t get every single person covered by the end of the night. But by 11:47, I couldn’t fight off the feeling that I really had to just bite the bullet and finish this. I apologized for backing out on the ping-pong match at a 19 to 17 (out of 21) score, but that I had to complete my mission before midnight. My opponent understood, and supported my doing what I had to do.

I made my way across the driveway, through the garage, into the living room, and…at last to the kitchen. I was stunned to realize that I had already gotten to each and every person in the room. I found Chris at the very end of the road, in the kitchen, and told him my good news. But wait! Just then, three more people walked in the door! I grabbed a quick bite of carrot cake and ran for my bag and fumbled for the pen and paper. But wait, WHERE THE HECK WAS THE NECKLACE?! I couldn’t find it! As the clock approached 11:58pm, I raced to finish my spin at this ball before some proverbial carriage turned back into a pumpkin!

I finally felt the sticky few rings of candy at the bottom of my backpack, and practically ordered the last two guys at the party to take their pick, and hurry! One of them chose orange because I was rushing him, and that’s just what happened. The other’s answer I don’t recall, because I was so crazed by the fact that the clock was now turning over to 12:00am on December 23, 2007. With seconds left to spare, I ate the second-to-last bite of yellow candy, and gave the remaining one to Chris, along with the rest of the necklace.

As I gathered my things, I thought about how I couldn’t pick just one favorite color candy of my own. On this night, I was really into the collective group of them as one, unbroken circle.

Chris, Jo Jo and Ginger walked me down the street to say goodnight. And Chris and I excitedly planned for the following day – my “real” birthday. He would work; I would spend the day on the beach at the Mauna Lani Lagoon and have lunch with Keely. He would come home and shower. I would have my birthday dinner with Dan and the Coffee Shack Crew. Then, after what would probably feel like a lifetime to a kid…we would finally get to play Rock Band!


1.12.07

Just Another Day in Paradise

(A pretty typical one, and oh, so much fun!)

early this morning, i hung out with keely at our friends', pam and tom's house. pam and tom are a handsome/beautiful couple, very successful and fun. keely and i are house-sitting and pet-sitting for them while they're away over the next two weeks. keely's taking the first week, i get the second, with their geriatric daschound (snitzel) and pug (phoebe). adorable little ones, they are! so keely and i swam in their gorgeous pool, laid in the sun for a while, and skimmed through the movie section in the paper, thinking about what we would see later in the afternoon. we always see movies on friday afternoons. today we decided we'd finally see 'american gangster'. a long, but enthralling, film with an excellent cast.

anyway, after swimming, i showered, then met chris in town at the kava bar for lunch. kava is a root, which - when made into a gray drink that tastes like a combination of turnips and mud - is supposed to make one feel "relaxed". i don't drink the nasty stuff, unless it's frozen and whipped into a "kava-colada", and its bitter taste is drowned out. however, the place is cool, a chill little space where people gather and shoot the breeze. it's outside in the open, just a little bar with wooden stools, and a few picnic-style tables in front. chris and i chop-sticked a plate-full of kahlua pork (mmmmmmmmm!) and garlic bread, then headed to the swing zone for some practice on the driving range.

we've recently gotten addicted to the new xbox 360 tiger woods game, which has made me itch to get out on a course and hit some REAL balls! keely (chris' mom) and our friend ian met us there, we all rented clubs and bought buckets of balls, and began walking out to the range. chris stuffed the change from our purchase into my back pocket, losing a quarter on in the process. we both noticed it falling, but decided not to pick it up...that some lucky person would find it later at the precise moment they needed it. we played, which was fun, but i realized i am much better at virtual golf than i am at the real thing.

by the time our supply of balls was depleted, we were all really hot and thirsty, so we went to the little junk-food window to order some cold drinks. i ordered a soda for me, and a frappe coffee for chris. as the woman behind the counter was ringing up our tab, i threw the remaining two quarter from my back pocket into her tip jar. the bill - she told me a split second after the change hit the glass - was (something dollars and) 25 cents. chris said, "do you have a quarter"? i said...no, i just put it in there"...then it dawned on both of us. wait a minute! we DO have a quarter!! the lady happily waited while chris walked ten paces and picked up the shimmering quarter where it still lay waiting in the grass!

cold drinks were wonderful. but not enough. we decided to go do both of our most favorite thing in the universe: jump in the water. we went to the kailua pier, where hundreds of cruise ship passengers milled around and took pictures of the most photographed frame in all of kona: heavenly kailua bay. we dove into the ocean, which felt like pure bliss as always; we swam and dove, and chris kicked down to the bottom about 30 feet, where he carved my name into the sand covering an old tire. we examined the HUGE sea urchins attached to the pier wall; we dove down the bouy chains and shot back up; chris told me about a shipwreck near by, but not close enough to swim to. and we both saw barracuda! all in our early afternoon swim. in the car afterward, chris got a call from his friend scott. from my end in the passenger seat, i heard this: "what? really? today?? a big shark???? we were just AT the harbor!" thank god, i realzied after he got off the phone and relayed the story to me, scott's friend had seen the shark at the honokohau harbor - NOT the pier! i guess this friend of scott's - an avid diver, marine biologist, and underwater filmguy (sounds like someone i should meet!) - set his camera on the sea floor and left it rolling, hoping to capture an image of rare octopus he had found earlier in the week. he swam away from the camera, where he "noticed" the 14-foot tiger shark local to the are coming up behind him! AND HE DIDN'T GET IT ON FILM BECAUSE HIS CAMERA WAS NOT ON HIM! but WOAH, and WOW, nonetheless!

we showered in the provided hose, then cruised around in our bathing suits, killing time before our movie (american gangster) was to start (in like an hour and a half!). we drove up and down ali'i drive watching the surfers ride kahalu'u waves, and pulled out at the scenic overlook in keauhou, where we discussed the sacred lava tube system chris had never found, (though not for lack of tromping through miles of brush to do so). we saw a spider savoring her mummied kill, tons of bees, and three butterflies: one orange, one white and one yellow. we had nonie-fruit wars, and looked out at the magnificent sea, until we felt like moving on.

at this point, we still had some time to kill before the movie started. so we walked around in HPM, which is like a smaller version of home depot, picking out which bathroom sets and refrigerators we would buy if money were no object. then the super k-mart, which is next to the theater, and where we always get the candy and soda we smuggle into the movies. we hung out in the sports and games aisles, throwing a football up and down the rows, and excitedly "oohing" over a set of 'junior' golf clubs we imagined would work better for me than the real, "tall people" clubs.

after the (enthralling, though very long) movie, it was about 7:30 and dark. so chris suggested we go to the farmer's market, which would be desserted this time of evening, and ride skateboards all over the walkways and sidewalks of the market! being on a skateboard again felt so good, so natural. and, as it always was, so FUN! and even cooler being barefooted than it would've been in shoes!

after getting all sweaty and tired, we headed back to chris' house, (which is where i spend about 75% of both my waking and sleeping life). there, we drank red wine, ate spaghetti, and played more xbox golf until our eyeballs nearly bled!

so...today's just about over. but a couple of cool things to note about both yeaterday and "tomorrow": last night, a 3.9 earhtquake subtly - though obviously - rumbled 16 miles underneath kona. though this was NOTHING compared to the 6.7 that rocked our world last october, it was felt just enough to jangle the nerves. and (monday)...the research project through the university of arizona that i've been anxiously awaiting for well over a year, which will involve a "research medium" attempting to contact mom in a double-blind reading, will happen. i have been instructed to invite mom into this conversation. then, after it has been completed, i will get a transcript of the reading, and score it for its accuracy.

now, it's after midnight, and a steady tropical rain is rocking me to sleep. i am happily beat, after living this day to the fullest. and ready for some rest and sweet dreams.

21.11.07

Happy Thanksgiving

Beauty in the Breakdown

Running, pounding feet
To the beats coursing through my
Mp3
Cushy shoes grip the spaces between
Mud, tree roots and slippery rocks

Feet take turns finding
Where each sole must fall
For its landing
To be perfect
On this curving and rolling
rainforest trail

Ginger charges ahead of me,
Jo Jo trots behind and
We are a pack,
ingesting the air
in thick,
sublimely-saturated
huffs

Our every move is a dance
to the rhythm of the simplest elements
Wetness on skin is both sweat and rain
The dogs have vines wound up in their tails
We are Breathing
Breathing
Breathing

And sensations are rich,
as throbbing signals
Push their way
through our veins

When our path comes to an end,
And before getting back in the car,
We three lay happily entangled
atop sopping foliage beds
covered in the dirty glow of
our hard working hearts

We are Panting
Panting
Panting
Just Being
Supremely Alive,
And this is the greatest blessing
Any of us can know.

19.11.07

Waipio Welcomes Us Home

We were lucky enough to get to drive our friend wanda's rented jeep for the day, as she left for her home in california earlier than expected. this car was a dream machine - made for places like waipio valley. Ginger waited in the car for almost an hour before we had packed and were ready to leave!







The current caretaker of linda beech's magnificent treehouse, where chris and i trekked the first time we came here together, caught a ride with us down into the valley! and so kindly, he offered to take us on a personal tour of the grounds, and the actual treehouse itself. our awesome little jeep bounced lightly over the rugged valley floor with ease. so we drove all the way to linda's property - across rivers, down rivers, next to rivers, through dense foliage, and into what seemed like a fantasy land.





















FOR MORE ON THE TREEHOUSE:

Check out a cool documentary called "Home Movie". It came out probably ten years ago, and it the documentation (by one filmmaker's account) of the 5 most interesting homes in the country. Linda's is one of them. I saw this movie years before I moved to Hawaii, and in fact remember it being one of the things that made me want to move here.
* * *
Our hike to hi'ilawe falls in waipio valley was saturated with sensory pleasure and intense fun. This trip was new to both Chris and me, which made it all the more exciting!
we were immersed in cool, beautiful water all day long.

Abandoning our backpacks here, we wore nothing but bathing suits and bare feet; with help of hands for gripping and arms for swinging between rocks, we used upper body strength when footwork was tricky and technical, and we clamored up riverways like a primal adam and eve. covered in mud and wet. muscles in motion. the smell of everything pungently GREEN, damp and alive!


Our happy golden retriever faced challenges with us across every procession of huge, moss-covered bolders, and through every vein and tributary of the river. she cried and cried at times, not believing in her own abilities. but when pushed and encouraged, she made leaps and bounds and was very proud of herself! (as we were of her).



We spent the afternoon climbing waterfalls as they ascending up a rainforest river, rapids cascading over our heads and faces and bodies at times.














we journeyed...we adventured. we followed each other and the call of the falls as they beckoned us to continue along this unknown path.

(For perspective: Find Chris in this picture on the left. He's sitting on a rock, against the backdrop of the very farthest cliff wall in the waipio valley. In the photo, he's about the size of a bit of dust! From this far away - and really until your own hands are within touching distance of the waterfall - it looks as if it's completely dry. But once you swim out to it, you end up under its brilliant rainstorm!)








we reached the promised pool, turquoise and majestic, where golfball sized droplets pelted us from the heavens as we finally reached the very back of the valley. the falls dropped down the face of a sheer cliff wall that reached upwards of 2000 feet into the sky.
















We hiked back, drove home, and marveled - once again - at the beauty and magic that continually bless our adventures.

7.11.07

LAST WEEK

We hiked in Waiamea at Anna's Pond...


We rolled down the hills, barely missing huge cow pies and giggling all the way.


Ginger purposely rolled IN a huge cow pie, writhing around joyfully in it as if it were the greatest set of silk sheets in the world! (Then she rubbed up against me... P.U.! )

malio and chris "raced" up this "hill". it took them about 45 minutes. they weren't so much running as they were slogging. still impressive display of boyish testosterone. (If you look at the photo with a microscope, you can see them both dotting the hillside).


A couple of EXTRORDINARY things went down (quite literally):

Malio jumped about 8 stories from a tree into the river in front of the falls. i know - he's a complete nut. KIDS - DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME! (Those two little bird legs you see in the middle of the branch hanging across the waterfall...those are Malio's feet). UNREAL maneuver!


I reached into my back pocket when we reached the falls, grabbing for my camera only to realize it was not there! it could have been anywhere along the tangly, foliage-ridden trail, or the grassy, dirty downhill path along which i scooted on my behind...or...in the muddy, twisty, rocky, murky, cold RIVER.


...i decided i would not leave until i found my brand new, deeply loved underwater camera. i was completely determined. i waded in the river for over an hour, retracing every inch of my path, tip-toeing across just the right rocks. i dug around in underwater grassbeds, thinking the camera might be woven up inside one of them. i took my shoes off, so that i could feel around the river bottom with my bare feet and in between rock crevices with my toes.


...i threw my left shoe onto the river bank, and in slow motion, it rolled three times, then plopped into the river, and was immediately whisked off downstream, tumbling over rapids and disappearing quickly from view. rather than get upset, i simply threw my other shoe right after it. i am growing "pads" on the bottoms of my feet from hiking and walking barefooted so much. COOL!


...i reached into all other crevices with my hands where i could reach. i went back over the land paths more than twice each. malio and chuck looked too. i finally asked my mom to guide me to the camera. i waded back to the edge of the river, to the exact spot where i had entered it in the first place. i reached my hand blindly down into a pocket between rocks under the current, and there my camera put itself in my hand. THANK YOU MOM!


* after our long, exhausting day, we got into chris' car and turned the i-pod on "shuffle". the very first song that began to play - (and it's a miracle chris didn't immediately change it, like he usually does) - was KODACHROME, by PAUL SIMON. paul simon was mom's favorite singer of all time. the song lyrics go like this: KODACHROME, YOU GIVE US THOSE NICE, BRIGHT COLORS, GIVE US THE GREENS OF SUMMERS, MAKES YOU THINK ALL THE WORLD IS A SUNNY DAY, OH YEAH...I GOT A NIKON CAMERA, LOVE TO TAKE PHOTOGRAPHS, SO MOMMA DON'T TAKE MY KODACHROME AWAY...


...well, my momma sure didn't take mine away. SHE GAVE IT BACK!

25.10.07

The Flumes of White Road


Before leaving for our Waipio Valley hike this morning, I asked Star if she had any “instructions” for Chris and me. As the last time we went there, she had given us the crude map - markered onto a post-it - that ended up guiding us to meet Linda, Goddess of the secret jungle Tree house. She had no particular mission for us today but to have fun; that was a given. But also, we knew we’d complete an assignment soon to be revealed. We always seem to.

We packed up the cooler with water, extra clothes; music, and lunch for the road. Meanwhile, Ginger sulked underneath the front tires of the Rodeo, hoping that she might be able to stop the wheels from turning without her. She knew she was staying home, as she had contracted pneumonia a week earlier from inhaling saltwater at Puako Beach, and was on house arrest until her course of antibiotics was finished. No swimming for three weeks! I know how much that would kill me, and Ginger – bless her waterlogged little heart – is a golden retriever! So needless to say, she was sorely disappointed to be left behind. She always wants to be in on the adventure. Besides her illness though, Chris said the White Road trail was far too shaky and narrow for Ginger to traverse safely. Once he had had to pull her back up onto the trail with a rope after she had lost her footing.

We had talked about this hike with several friends the previous Friday night, but none of them answered their phones on this Sunday morning. Chris and I realized it was just going to be us. So away we went, stopping on the way out of the Palisades to grab breakfast snacks at Matsuyama’s Market & Kay’s Kitchen. Approaching Waimea about 45 minutes later, Chris dropped me off at the Starbucks to get my morning caffeine, in the form of an iced vanilla coffee with cream, while he crossed the parking lot to the hardware store, picking up two machetes and a blade sharpener. After having gone to the White Road trail a month or so ago, he remembered that the trail had been changed almost unrecognizably by the earthquake, was badly overgrown, and could use some reshaping. There it was: We had our job lined up for the day.


A couple of blocks after the coffee shop, and approximately two miles from the trailhead, Chris engaged his new GPS system. We would be tracking our every move from that point forward, then could actually save the track lines from the day’s movement, and walk the very same path later on. We realized shortly after beginning our hike that such information would become very handy should we ever choose to do this hike again. Reason being, we realized after a mile or less of trekking, that we would have to pretty much blaze own trail.

We parked the car at the White Road gate, put our towels and food in our packs, and hopped over the barrier donning signs: Posted: Keep out! Private property! (This is how most hikes with Chris begin). The terrain was easy at first, as I remembered it from almost two years prior when I had hiked it for the first time. Then, we had gone only a few miles to the mouth of the canyon. Today, our goal was to make it to the flumes. These comprise the drainage system that brings rain from the top of the Kohala Mountains to the bottom, where it is then used for agricultural purposes and drinking water. The canals themselves are carved out of the hillside, cement on the bottom, and covered in a grassy moss. We wouldn’t get to the flumes, Chris informed me, for quite some time. And, he said, the land we’d covered so far – even at its messiest – was “nothing” compared to what was in store.

By the time the canyon opened up before us, and we stopped to rest and drink water, I realized that I had worn my flip-flops when I should’ve put on my tennies. I don’t know what I had been thinking, but decided that instead of dwell on it, I’d simply take my shoes off for a while. The ground was soft and muddy for the most part. Shortly after this break and deep breath, the so-called trail became tangled and confusing. Chris led the way, swinging his machete like a samurai, while I followed, swinging mine to take out what he had left undone. We slogged on, hugging the rim of the canyon on the left, watching it drop off into green oblivion on the right. We got into a rhythm with our machete swings, each of us huffing and heaving like natives plowing an original path. The beauty that surrounded us on all sides was stunning. We were working hard, and found ourselves on a progressively technical hike through what was becoming a complete non-trail. Chris – knowing the original trail well – eventually realized that we had gotten off of it completely, and were now higher up than we should be. I suggested we simply continue pasting ourselves along the wall of the cliff; but Chris knew in his heart of hearts and mind of minds that the actual trail was below us – on a parallel fathom. His idea was to turn toward the plummeting abyss between Waipio and Waimanu Valleys, and chop down the ginger plants and stinging nettle, one at a time, making sure that underneath each downed tree there was solid ground. I was unsure, but trusted Chris. So he continued to lead, and I followed, hastily removing my gloves once in a while to grab the camera and record the phenomenal scenes of the day.

We macheted our way through the thickets until our makeshift “trail” finally joined the real one Chris was familiar with. We continued butchering through this wild forest until - what seemed like ages later – we hit a cement wall. Chris jumped over it. I asked if this was it. Had we reached the flumes? Without turning around, Chris quietly said, “You’ll see”. When I caught up and peeked over the wall, I saw an incredible sight: A cool, inviting waterway, nestled in against the lush back end of the Waipio Valley. Leading up from the flat (man-made) river, was the flume we had been looking for. It was approximately 100 feet high, and dropped at a 45-degree angle! In order to slide down it, we had to guide ourselves up the natural waterslide with a rope that had been put in place by pioneering adventurers; then sit down, face the drop, and let ourselves slide. It felt like we were straight out of the Goonies!

Chris went first, and I took pictures of his descent. Then I went, and he took pictures of mine. I had on only bathing suit bottoms, so the grass-moss burned my butt and thighs like a carpet might, all the way down. But I didn’t care. The discomfort – of the moss-burn, on top of foot soreness, and nettle barbs prickled into every inch of my skin – was far secondary to the thrill of the flume ride! What beauty. What excitement! What a treasure to find. I screamed like a little girl as I flew down the flume at a million miles an hour, after Chris yelled at me five times to “Come on Liz! Just go already!!”

We had worked so hard to get to this spot, and once there, we reveled in our accomplishment. We were high on the coolest stuff in life. We ate sandwiches and potato chips, dangling our legs and feet over the water, and laughed about our crusts and American cheese falling into the whirlpool below us. As we finished, thick blankets of fog rolled over our heads and settled into the valley. We had made it to the flumes just in time for it to still feel really refreshing after a hot, hard hike in the sun. But by the time we left the flumes after sliding and eating, it was getting a bit chilly. Neither of us had brought our extra clothes any further than the car, trying to keep down the weight in our backpacks. So Chris wore his wet shirt as we continued on; and I wore a blue and white striped towel around my shoulders, which – oddly enough – matched the gardening gloves I had worn to protect my hands from the harshness of the work. I felt like some strange and silly superhero, with my towel cape, gloves, bladed weapon, bare feet, backpack and wet, sticking-up hair!

Rather than turning back after lunch, and hiking the approximate two hours back to the car, we decided to continue on to the distant, silhouetted promise of the Bamboo Forest. This place sounded like an enchanted one, and we wanted to keep the challenge of painstaking longevity alive. We also had much more trail-blazing to do. So we ventured on for another hour along the rim of the valley. This stretch of the hike may as well have been the road to any fairy tale destination. The hills around us were densely cushioned with springy moss, ferns, grasses, leaves and flowers. Greens of every shade carpeted the ground, and every step fell on thickness and whispers. The humid air around us held the pungent sweetness of ginger to our nostrils as we traveled. The trail was soft, muddy and gentle on my feet. While I sought out the muddiest spots to step, to soothe my sore toes, Chris focused hard on avoiding getting his slippers at all wet or muddy. Usually, when a mud puddle arose before us, I took the lead while Chris painstakingly etched his way around it. The fog was thick, and hung between the valley walls, a silent field of clouds, soaking up all extraneous noise but the vibrant humming of crickets.

Once at the end of the bamboo forest, we decided we’d better head back. Both of us were already tired, but knew we must get going and get back as quickly as we could. I got the most excited about using my machete with the gusts of my second wind. I swung and chopped with everything I had left in me. Many times, I took the lead and pretended again that I was a super-girl with an axe, taking out bad guys to clear the way for future hikers.

As the pink, foggy evening approached, and softly haunted our weary footsteps, we came upon an opening to the right side of the trail that revealed a break in the flume system. We were on level ground, and since Chris could walk across the wooden planks that sat atop the cement bridge filled with water and I couldn’t (as the slats lay too far apart for my legs to span), I waded in the water underneath them, which felt cold and soothing on my sorry soles. Chris stuck to the trail, machete in full swing, and met me on the other side of the tunnel. When we met again, I encouraged Chris to join me on the next “leg” of the tunnel. I could see the opening at its other end – just a small square-ish opening letting light through, beckoning an Alice-in-Wonderland sort of inspection of it. I convinced Chris that – even if the tunnel didn’t bypass the trail by taking us directly through the mountain, it would still be worth checking out, for the sake of curiosity if nothing else.

Chris agreed, so we set off into the pitch darkness of this tunnel, whose cylindrical walls hugged us closely on all sides. The top of the cave was high enough for me to make through without so much as hunching over slightly. Chris, on the other hand, had to duck – which hurt his already aching back. We couldn’t see an inch in front of our faces, but kept systematically sloshing through the foot or so of water that enveloped our feet as we trudged toward the light at the end of this passageway. Perception was so bizarre in there. It seemed like the further forward we went, the further away the opening got. I walked in front of Chris, and he said it looked like there was an “aura” of light around my head. We tried taking photos to capture this unique space, but the flash ruined the effect, and I already began thinking of how impossible it would be to explain how awesome and weird this walk really was.

When we finally reached the opening, and it widened to its full potential, Chris scooted slowly to the edge of what looked like a sheer drop-off. I followed, anxiously awaiting the reveal of what was on the other side of that guiding light. It turned out to be a raging waterfall, shooting over the end of the world, into another swirling river. We obviously hadn’t bypassed the trail, and would have to turn around and walk all the way back to get back on our walking path. But neither of us was sorry we had checked it out!

So on and on we went, as the night fell and gave birth to a surprisingly bright (and therefore helpful) half moon. We were both tiring fast, and wanted nothing more than to reach the Isuzu on the other side of the gate at White Road. We put our pedals to the metal and made it back approximately two hours after the dawn of the darkness. We both collapsed into the car, Chris into a reclined passenger seat, me into the driver’s. But not before excitedly gaping at the GPS to see how far we had gone. The gage said TWENTY ONE point SEVEN FIVE MILES!! Subtract the approximate two miles of driving distance between the McDonald’s in town and the trail head, and we had hiked almost twenty miles in one treacherous, exhilarating, fun and exhausting seven hour day.

We both had nettle sting welts all over our legs, arms, chests, armpits, necks and faces. Our back and shoulder muscles were already tense and sore from chopping down the bush. And we had scratches and mud chunks embedded in our toenails. Best of all, my feet were still bare, and had been so for at least 15 miles of the trip. Not to mention, I had enough energy left to drive us home. And couldn’t stop smiling the entire way. Hawaii’s heart had shown us yet another very special day.